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issue #1 / Spring 2007
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Tonja Renee Hall   
Travel Narratives >>  

Fall 2006

 

I hate Hostel's; there, I said it. When you're 20ish and first seeing the world, fine. You hear strange languages, smell strange smells, have crushes on Palestinian young men, and learn that Lichtenstein is actually a country, not a stamp. Though I've never met anyone from Lichtenstein.

Now, at 40ish, Hostel's feel overcrowded, dirty, and somewhat demoralizing. I am embarrassed I can't afford anything better and annoyed that I am stepping in a cold puddle of water left by the 30 other shower takers that didn't bother to remove their dreadlocks from the drain.

 

I am humiliated to be here.

It's always weird traveling alone as a woman, but, then, when you are over 30 you start to get the raised eyebrows.
“She’s not married yet, traveling alone, riding her bike around, and talking to those 20 somethings about Snoop Dogg." She's pretty enough, How pitiful. 
 Well, I happen to like Snoop D before the double G, and otherwise I’d be sitting alone. 
 Then there's the whole fear of wearing something purple. Who was that asshole who wrote that liberated, feminist manifesto, “when I am old, I shall wear purple..." Geeezzz. That stupid poem has haunted me since 16. Am I the purple woman age?? I don't think so, I feel 25. But dare I admit my REAL age; there goes the raised eyebrows again. Because of my terror of purple, I’ve never bought a lavender stitch, until this year. Now I find myself uncontrollably drawn to lavender, Royal purple, sage and dusky rose! Fuck. Ok, ok. So the color of the season is Aubergine, but what will my excuse be next year?
The fucking Hostel room is painted purple for god's sake. 

I am here to tell you I'm not one of those women who go “natural” and have 25 cats. Actually, that is more likely my sister who is up to 4 or 5 cats, but she has a boyfriend, so it doesn't count. Why should I care what people think?? 
 

I am vain, and I do care.

But the cool thing is I am 40; I’m fucking dragging my tight ass around New Zealand on my bike, ALONE, freezing, but looking cute in cycling skirts designed by moi. I'm trying my best to figure things out and seeing some beautiful scenery in the mean time.

Why did I ever leave Bangkok?? For all the annoyances, it is a pretty wonderful place to live, and I’ve carved out a little life here. Well, when you know you know. And I knew on the first date. If a year ago you'd have pointed your finger and said, "Yeah, that guy over there. The one in the suit, the wannna be smart glasses, short hair, and always talking on the g.d. cell phone. Yeah, that's him.” I'd have laughed and walked away.
Please, I only date cowboys, rockstars, and ex-junkies, not corporate dorks.
I thought he was a stuck up English prick who needed an enema, and he thought I was a star-spangled lesbian. Boy, I’m glad we were wrong!

I finally found a kindred spirit—-the other square pea to nestle in on the two-seater square peapod bus. The two of us wound each other up, and I have never laughed so much in my life. We had adventure galore, and I've never been happier or loved anyone like this.

But, my friend's don't see it that way, and no one could have prepared me for the heartbreak. They say, "Without trust what do you have?" I want to roast him alive for what he's done. I see their point but could never light that fire on someone I love so much, so I grabbed my bleeding heart and ran.

It's the loneliest moment to arrive some new and foreign place and finally realize you have left everything behind: your job, your home, your friends, your comfort, security, and love. All you got is you, your bike, and a little motivation to see what’s over the next hill, because you can't stand out in the freezing rain all day and cry.

So, honestly, I don't really know why I’m here. My job prospects have fallen through, and NZ is way too expensive for me. Plus, I don't think I need a Jack Kerouac moment right now, just aimlessly trying to find myself. I know who I am; I just don't know where I’m going right now. I need a job and focus and my friends.

  So, we'll see.

  I hope you are all enjoying my travel stories and the history behind them. I don't know if traveling like this is for everyone, least of all me, but I have a restless heart and must still see what's over the next hill.

  I love you all and am thinking of you,

  Tonja

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